The Watch

The Monclaire Guide

The Watch


The Designation

Rolex Lady-Datejust
$7,200+ (steel)

Rolex refused to offer women lesser engineering.

The Lady-Datejust runs Caliber 2236: self-winding, entirely developed and manufactured in-house, the same Superlative Chronometer certification applied to men's references. The Syloxi hairspring — silicon, paramagnetic, temperature-stable — oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Fifty-five-hour power reserve. Accuracy after casing: -2/+2 seconds per day.

This is not a compromise. It's the same engineering philosophy applied to a 28mm case. The Datejust 31 offers the same caliber in a larger format. The Datejust 36 — now the gender-neutral standard — runs Caliber 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve.

A Rolex, purchased new and properly maintained, retains approximately 107% of its value. A watchmaker in 2085 can service a mechanical Rolex from 1960.

The watch treats the buyer as a collector.
(For the historical and market context behind this decision, see The Watch · A Dossier.)

Designated.


Did Not Pass

Several houses offered quartz movements at five-figure prices. Others steered women toward jewelry cases when they asked about complications. Some reserved mechanical calibers for men's references only. The Dossier holds the full account.
(See The Watch · A Dossier for documented failures; see The Watch · An Edit for the thesis-level argument.)


Forty-seven watches examined. One admitted.


Brand referenced:

Rolex


Modern Monclaire maintains no commercial relationships with any watch house. This publication accepts no advertising, affiliate revenue, or sponsored content.

(Continue the object set: The Coat · The Monclaire Guide · The Scent · The Monclaire Guide · The Carafe · The Monclaire Guide.)

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